Using retinoids
Using retinoids can be more complicated than using other skincare products. There are different factors to consider when using them such as the time of day, the strength, your skin’s tolerance, and other products you may be using. This guide will explain all of these factors and help you use retinoids effectively.
Why it is important to use retinoids correctly
When starting to use retinoids, it is not uncommon to experience side effects such as skin irritation in the form of redness, peeling, and dryness. For some people, these side effects may be quite severe, especially if the retinoid is used incorrectly, or they have sensitive skin. Others may not experience any side effects at all. To minimise the risk of side effects and maximise the benefits of retinoids, it is important to use them correctly.
Building up tolerance to retinoids
If you have sensitive skin or have never used retinoids before, it is a good idea to start with a low concentration of retinoid and gradually increase the strength as your skin gets used to it. It can help build up tolerance for the side effects that retinoids can cause. [1] When your skin has built up tolerance to the side effects, the retinoids remain effective.
For example, imagine you start using a 0.05% retinal cream. Use this 2 times a week for the first 2 weeks, then increase to 3 times a week for the next 2 weeks, and increase the frequency until you can tolerate using it every day. If you experience irritation, you can reduce the frequency of use or switch to a lower concentration of retinoid.
The importance of applying retinoids at night with sunscreen during the day
In how retinoids work, we explained how retinoids work by increasing cell turnover. To recap, increasing the rate of cell turnover means that the skin sheds dead cells more quickly, allowing newer cells to come to the surface. This process can cause the skin to become temporarily thinner and more sensitive to the sun. [2] For this reason, it is important to apply retinoids at night and use sunscreen during the day. This is especially true just after starting to use retinoids. After a few months, the skin’s tolerance to the sun should return to normal. [3]
Use on dry skin instead of damp or wet skin
Many dermatologists recommend applying retinoids to dry skin instead of damp or wet skin. When washing your face or cleansing your skin, your pores are open and can absorb more of the retinoid. This can increase the risk of irritation. Applying retinoids to dry skin can help reduce the risk of irritation.
Products to avoid combining with retinoids
- Benzoyl peroxide: Benzoyl peroxide is an antiseptic agent that is used to treat acne by killing bacteria. When combined with a retinoid, it can increase skin sentivity and lead to dryness and irritation. Speak to your doctor or dermatologist before combining benzoyl peroxide with a retinoid. [4]
- Salicylic acid: Salicylic acid is best absorbed by the skin at lower pH levels. By combining it with a retinoid, the pH level of the skin can increase, making the salicylic acid less effective. The side effects of retinoids can also be increased when being used with salicylic acid. [5]
- Vitamin C: Vitamin C is an antioxidant that can help protect the skin from free radicals. When combined with a retinoid, the pH level of the skin can increase, making the vitamin C less effective. The side effects of retinoids can also be increased when being used with vitamin C. [6]
More frequently asked questions about how to use retinoids ↗
References
- Use of Retinoids in Topical Antiaging Treatments: A Focused Review of Clinical Evidence for Conventional and Nanoformulations
- Retinol
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Using benzoyl peroxide with other medicines and herbal supplements
- Can You Use Salicylic Acid & Retinol Together?
- Increased antioxidant reactivity of vitamin C at low pH in model membranes
